Meet the Chef

Please enjoy my first Guest Chef series with Francois de Melogue. He has spent years perfecting recipes that celebrate the best of Mediterranean ingredients.

I shipped Francois a bit of my olive oil and asked for a recipe and to tell us a story about his inspiration and love of food. The calamari salad recipe he has shared with us is excellent for a summer meal. And his storytelling creates a vivid image of his French mother and how food colors and fills his life. Francois lives on a beautiful farm in Vermont where he gardens with his wife and son, and takes stunning photos of the surrounding beauty of New England … and old barns.

Francois de Melogue

Bonjour!

I came by my reverence and passion for French food very honestly. I grew up the proud son of two immigrant parents whose French culture and joie de vivre helped shape the person that I am today.

My story starts from the very beginning, actually, nine months before, when I was still deep within my mother's warm and comfortable womb. My grandfather Pépé insisted on feeding my pregnant mother a hearty French diet of foie gras and black truffles to ensure that, despite living thousands of miles from the French motherland, I would grow up to become a proper gourmand. The gourmandizing extended just past my first minute on planet Earth. Instead of getting the traditional spank and sip of mother's milk to herald my arrival, I was handed a flute of bubbles and, with that, a serious addiction to the good life, a French palate, and a deep taste for truffles.

I grew up in Chicago, living life on the fence between two cultures: French and American. My mother came from a Provençal family whose wide roots extended as far north as Alsace. Her palate was educated by a combination of the simple country cooking that appeared nightly on her father's dinner table and eating at many of the great brasseries in Paris.

It may be very cliché to claim that I learned to cook hanging off my maman's apron strings, but I really did. My mother was a free-spirited natural in the kitchen who cooked like a great jazz musician's riff. It was edible poetry in constant motion. She had a bold and fearless style that was inspired by what she found each day at the market. Often, she strapped me and my sister to her bicycle and rode to the four corners of the universe in search of ingredients.

For the French, the act of sourcing fresh ingredients (and getting fresh baguettes) is monumental. It is the key to the success of any dish.

We shopped daily with my mother, who taught us from a very young age how to pick the ripest tomatoes and best eggplants for her ratatouille. Her ambrosial version, best savored with eyes closed, conveyed the rich tapestry of the Provençal table. French home cooking is simple, unpretentious cuisine based on sun-ripened vegetables and fruits, fragrant herbs, abundant seafood, and pasture-raised meats.

My mother schooled me on using the cheaper, secondary cuts that still weren't popular in America and transforming them into a delectable navarin of lamb or a slow-cooked beef daube.

My mother's food was imbued with a generous helping of love and passion typical of any French woman. The scenes from my childhood could have very well played out in any French household in the world. While most kids were out playing games with their friends, I was busy mastering a mustard vinaigrette for a simple green salad.

I grew up cooking French food, and it is the very aspect I want to share the most. Remember, first and foremost, that food is a celebration. We celebrate the changing seasons by the dishes we cook; we celebrate the table, our friendships, and the simple joys of life.

My goal is to share my passion for French home cooking and how the French like to eat. I will leave you with one last thought: My first mentor taught me that people do not eat methods, they only eat results. Don't get too caught up or stressed about things like whether to use canned chickpeas or the dried ones that need to be soaked overnight. The important part is the final flavor, consistency, and the conviviality at your home. And love is always the most essential ingredient in any recipe.

Have fun cooking. Bon Chance et Bon Appétit!

Francois de Melogue

Calamari Salad with Farro, Chickpeas, and Preserved Lemon

Photo - Francois de Melogue

A vibrant, sun-soaked Mediterranean salad perfect for summer entertaining.

This Mediterranean Calamari Salad with Farro and Preserved Lemon captures everything I love about summer—farmers' markets in full swing, ocean air drifting inland, and leisurely meals shared under the sun. It's a dish that strikes the perfect balance: light and refreshing yet hearty enough to satisfy.

Gently poached calamari becomes tender and delicate, forming the ideal base for a salad full of vibrant textures and flavors. Nutty farro, creamy chickpeas, and the punchy brightness of preserved Lemon create a rich Mediterranean foundation. Crisp celery adds a fresh crunch, while sumac offers a subtle, citrusy lift. Juicy cherry tomatoes bring sweetness, and peppery arugula lends a wild green bite that ties it all together.

Just before serving, I love to drizzle the salad with a splash of high-quality extra virgin olive oil. That final touch adds a silky richness and a spicy, assertive note that elevates every bite.

The result is a beautifully layered dish, familiar yet unexpected, ideal for summer lunches, picnics, or casual alfresco dinners with friends and a chilled glass of wine.

The Recipe

Calamari Salad with Farro, Chickpeas, and Preserved Lemon

Prep Time: 25 minutes | Cook Time: 30 minutes | Serves: 4

Ingredients:

· 1 lb (450g) cleaned squid (tubes and tentacles), cut into rings

· 1 cup farro

· 1 cup cooked chickpeas

· ½ preserved Lemon, rind only, finely chopped

· 1 tsp ground sumac (optional but recommended)

· 1 small sweet onion, finely diced

· 1 garlic clove, finely minced

· zest and juice of 1 lemon

· 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

· 1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved

· 1 celery rib, thinly sliced

· 2 large handfuls arugula (rocket), washed and dried

· 1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped

· a few sprigs of fresh mint, leaves torn

· sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Instructions:

Cook the farro: In a medium saucepan, cover the farro with plenty of salted water. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 25–30 minutes, or until tender but still slightly chewy. Drain and allow it to cool.
Poach the calamari: Bring a pot of salted water to a gentle simmer. Add the squid and cook for 1–2 minutes until just opaque and tender. Avoid overcooking. Drain immediately and rinse under cool water to stop the cooking process. Pat dry.
Prepare the dressing: In a large bowl, whisk together the garlic, preserved Lemon, sumac, lemon zest and juice, and olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Assemble the salad: Add the farro, chickpeas, onion, celery, cherry tomatoes, calamari, parsley, and mint to the dressing. Toss gently until everything is well coated. Just before serving, fold in the arugula to preserve its crispness.

Wine Pairing

A salad with such fresh, coastal notes pairs effortlessly with wines that echo the sea and sun. Vermentino from Corsica or Liguria brings citrus, herbs, and a mineral edge that beautifully complements the preserved Lemon and sumac. For something classic and Provençal, try a chilled Picpoul de Pinet or a pale Côtes de Provence Rosé. For a more adventurous pairing, a crisp Assyrtiko from Santorini offers volcanic minerality and citrus tension that mirrors the dish's Mediterranean soul.

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Many thanks to Chef de Melogue for the time and thought he gave to sharing his story and recipes.